Kayak Crankin’ with Efficiency
When it comes to fishing tournaments from a single launch with 30 other anglers, or not having the option to run 10 miles up lake to another spot, throwing a crankbait is the most efficient and productive way to find bass from a kayak. Crankbaits allow depths from 6 inches down to 25 feet to be fished quickly and efficiently. Whether it’s a reservoir, river system, or small private water, my go-to search bait is always a crankbait. I get many questions in regards to how to throw crankbaits in cover, especially in shallow water with wood or rock. How do I prevent from getting hung up? What’s the best bait to use? What’s the best color? I will answer these questions, but first, here’s a quick fishing story. I was pre-fishing for a tournament on Chickamauga Lake, and I found a stretch of stumps in 2-6 feet of water. I started with a jig, then a Texas rigged worm and found nothing, not even a sniff. I knew the fish had to be there getting ready for the spawn, so I started throwing a Strike King KVD 1.5 square bill and caught a 3.5 pounder on my second cast. I immediately stopped fishing with the hope that the fish would be there when it would count. On tournament day, I caught a nice limit and got second place while fishing a 50 yard stretch bouncing the crankbait off stumps. The key was getting the reaction bite when the fish wouldn’t take a jig or worm. The quick change of direction triggers the bass to bite. Now to address the questions I most often answer about crankbait fishing. Occasionally, I will get hung up on structure, but the technique is to use a medium to medium heavy action rod paired with a square bill crankbait. The flex in the rod along with the shape of the bill lets the bait deflect off cover instead of hanging. While working close to the shallow cover, I use an underhand cast to land the bait just past the stumps or rocks, then reel while staying in contact with the cover. If I feel the bait start to hang, I will stop my retrieve and more than likely it will float out. When it comes to retrieve speed, I like to make 4 or 5 fast turns of the handle to get the bait down to the cover or the bottom. Like I mentioned earlier, the rod is very important, so for shallow cranking, an APX 7′ Medium Heavy Cranking from All Pro Rods is my rod of choice. For deep cranking, I will cast way past my target to make sure the bait gets down. Even in 15 feet of water, I like the bait to have contact with the bottom for as long as possible. For deep cranking, the APX Blaster 7′ 10″ medium or medium heavy is perfect for making long casts while getting the bait down deep. ...
WS Airpro Phase III High Seat Lighting
So, I wanted to create a light for the subject seat. What I ended up creating was a lighted tackle box that you can use ANYWHERE! Use it at the ramp to organize your stuff. Put it in the cavity under your seat and turn it on long enough to retie a lure. Take it to the campsite after your fishing trip is over. My favorite part of this is that of the 6 compartments, you still have 5 open to stuff with whatever sort of fishing/hunting/camping/auto stuff you want! An added bonus is that when you open the box, the top lies right in front of the SuperNova Fishing Lights LED strip, which illuminates the whole top! I built 10 of these and have most of them out for Test & Evaluation. Can’t wait to see how well they are received. Lighted 3600-size tackle box in the WS Airpro Phase III High Seat
YakAttack BlackPak with SuperNova Fishing Lights LED lighting
I put SuperNova Fishing Lights in the tankwell of my WS Ride 135 some time ago. They were fantastic when I used a milk crate for tackle organization. However, since switching to the BlackPak from YakAttack, with its solid sides, the lights haven’t been much help - My solution? Place a strip of green LEDs INSIDE my BlackPak. I put a strip on the forward/near wall under the top rail. That way I will never be looking directly at the lights while in the cockpit of my kayak, but they will illuminate the contents. I went with green for two reasons. 1) It won’t negatively affect my night vision and 2) I can still discern color. Put blue, red and purple soft plastics in your hand and look at them under red, blue and green lights. With green, you can still tell which is which. Finally, since I already had wiring going to my tankwell, I simply replaced one LED strip with a 2-conductor connector that mates up with the one on my BlackPak. If I can ever find a proper waterproof box to contain 8AA batteries and a waterproof switch, I’ll use a few of the many mounting holes on the BlackPak to create a lighting system that is totally independent from the kayak. Stay tuned!
- Mar 06, 2014 The End of the Road
- Mar 05, 2014 Scotland Skate expedition – beaten by the weather
- Feb 26, 2014 Wilderness Systems Ride 115X Review
- Dec 06, 2013 A Long Time Coming
- Dec 02, 2013 WS Airpro Phase III High Seat Lighting
- Nov 25, 2013 YakAttack BlackPak with SuperNova Fishing Lights LED lighting
- Nov 21, 2013 Winter fishing is a drag
- Nov 19, 2013 A Legend of the Flats
- Nov 14, 2013 Hues and Saturation
- Nov 13, 2013 Review – Daiwa Exceler-X 3000 FS reel